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“Disk Vase,” by Jonathan Kaplan is glazed with the Blue/Green/Purple variation of VC Glaze with PV Black sprayed over top.

June 18, 2008

Electric Kiln Success: How to Get Exciting Ceramic Surfaces with Cone 6 Glazes

by Jonathan Kaplan | Read Comments (10)

Denver, Colorado, ceramic artist Jonathan Kaplan is usually less-than-enthused by the results of using a single glaze in a Cone 6 oxidation firing. He reminds us that rules are meant to be broken in ceramics and it is important to always keep experimenting to get the results that excite you. Resist the habit of doing the same ol’ same ol’! Jonathan has developed some methods with which he tweaks his glazes and his firing schedule to add some oomph to his ceramic surfaces. Today he shares his techniques for enlivening Cone 6 glazes and some of his favorite Cone 6 ceramic glaze recipes. - Jennifer Harnetty, editor.

Cone 6 Glazes
Color and texture in cone 6 glazes are the result of three variables: First, selecting proper glazes; second, learning how to layer and combine different glazes by pouring, dipping and spraying; and third, using a controlled cooling cycle to further enhance the color and texture. This slow cooling not only creates a visual dialog in thick and thin areas of glaze application, but also helps with the crystallization of certain materials, which adds depth and interest to the glaze.
electricsuccess_supp01.jpg
This detail of the piece above shows the cooling crystals that developed during a controlled,
slow cooling.


Glaze Application
I spray or dip glazes over each other. My experience is that no single glaze can provide a visually interesting surface in an electric kiln, although there may certainly be exceptions. My layering technique allows the many differing glaze materials to combine and melt in unique ways, providing a visually interesting surface with depth. All of this is caused by the interactions of multiple materials applied over each other. Applying glazes over textures in the clay allows the melted glaze to pool. A thicker concentration of glaze materials in these areas yields different areas of color.

When mixing and testing glazes for future use on your pottery, it is useful to try different methods of combining glazes. For example, if you mix up a few small test batches of different glazes, try dipping one glaze over the other on the top rim of your test tile. Then reverse the order. For instance, if you dip glaze A over glaze B, then do another tile with glaze B dipped over glaze A.

Firing
Most glazes have a range of several pyrometric cones. I fire my cone 6 glazes to cone 7 using a programmable controller with the following heating and cooling cycle:

1st segment 50°F/hour to 220°F
2nd segment
250°F/hour to 2167°F
3rd segment
  150°F/hour to 1500°F


I have found that this provides a better melt and allows a good mingling of the many layers of glaze. It’s necessary to experiment and test your glazes to determine their range. kiln wash or stilts under your ware is a necessity!

It is fine to program a “hold” into the end of the second segment if you have a single zone kiln and wish to try to even out the firing from top to bottom. With the introduction of multiple zone controls on many of the new kilns, a soak at the end is not really necessary. If you don’t have a computer-controlled kiln, use the infinite switches to “fire down” the kiln. With the addition of a pyrometer and a decent thermocouple, you can achieve a reasonable controlled cooling cycle.

Record Keeping
It’s important to keep accurate records so when you get results that are pleasing, you can repeat them. In an electric kiln, repeatable results are easier to achieve than in a fuel-burning kiln, especially if your electric kiln is equipped with a programmable controller. There is no substitute for experimenting. It takes time and persistence to achieve the surfaces that are pleasing to you. No one glaze or method will work. It is a combination of glazes and applications, followed by the proper firing with a controlled cooling cycle.

Recipes
Remember to always test new glazes before committing them to your finished work!
electricsuccess_recV2.jpg


electricsuccess_recv3.jpg


Jonathan Kaplan has been working in ceramics for more than 30 years as an artist, potter, ceramic designer and educator.  He currently resides in Denver, Colorado, and curates Plinth Gallery.
See www.jonathankaplanceramics.com and www.plinthgallery.com.

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Read more about these related topics:
Firing Techniques Glazing Techniques & Glaze Recipes Ceramics Decorating 

 


10 Comments

Add Your Own Comment

julie | July 23, 2008 11:20 pm

jonothan, how does this cooling work with red iron oxide glazes at cone 6. I was having a problem with these glazes browning out with a controlled cooling.


Mary | July 8, 2008 12:08 pm

Jonathan, I want you to know how thrilled I am after reading your article!!! I tried your firing cycle and got such a beautiful glaze....I sprayed on 2-3 coats of glazes, different colors overlayed, and did the slow cool down. The cool down made the difference....just beautiful! Thank you, thank you!!! That was just the ticket! -Mary


Jonathan | June 20, 2008 12:57 pm

Regarding gerstly borate, I still use it in a number of my glazes and am not particularly bothered by that "the only consistant with gerstley borate is that it is inconsistent!" I think the reason is that I am fortunate to have quite a large supply of older gerstly borate from back in the day. I stay away from using it in a reduction atmosphere when iron oxide and rutile are also in the glaze. Jonathan


Jonathan | June 20, 2008 12:53 pm

Once you have an end point and a soak time (if necessary) dialed in, always use a pyrometric to determine what works for you. Remember that cones monitor temperature and time, also known as "heat work" and those enpoints are going to be different than what you see on the controler or pyrometer. Always use a cone to get the results you want and then correlate that to what you program your controller. PV Clay is Plastic Vitrox Clay. Jonathan


linda | June 20, 2008 11:24 am

Jonathan, what is PV clay? Thanks, Linda


gertis | June 19, 2008 5:41 pm

Hi Jonathan, Thank you for your very informative article re your glazes and glazing methods. One point puzzles me though. 2167 degrees = cone 7? I'm getting cone 6 at 2185 with a 10 minute soak. Please enlighten me. Sue


Madeleine | June 19, 2008 12:59 pm

Thanks, Jonathan. I look forward to trying these. I see you don't hold with the "don't use gerstley borate because it is inconsistent" argument. I actually like having variation, so that's fine with me (as long as it doesn't pin hole or bubble.. .) I've also never sprayed, partly because of the uniform look, but you've managed to create interest and variation, so perhaps I'll try that as well.


Jonathan | June 19, 2008 10:34 am

There are no general rules about layering glazes other than to experiment on test tiles and develop a methodology that works for you and is repeatable. Its important to pay attention to glaze thickness when you overlap one glaze over another, Try brushing, spraying, and dipping with the understanding that when you dip one glaze over another the resulting thickness becomes a real issue and it might be that thickness that accounts for the glaze jumping of the piece. Jonathan


Matthew | June 19, 2008 8:57 am

I have been overlapping glazes and slow cooling my electric paragon kiln with some success. However I have found that some glazed repel other glazes. In two fireings where I had two glazes with different flux types, the over glaze jumped right off the piece. Are there any general rules for overlapping glazes with different types of flux.


Carol | June 19, 2008 8:49 am

I'm finiding it very informative and helpful with some of my questions.